文章来源:TimeOut消费导刊   发布时间:2019-12-15 05:14:26|凤凰论坛高手资料  【字号:      】  


  Butterflies are trying to fly into jewelry boxes this spring on a cloud of experimental designs.

  Even a traditional jeweler like Graff has added emphasis to its signature butterfly design with a new pink diamond frame to its traditional marquise-cut and pear-cut diamond wings. So the butterflies “pop out because the pink is very strong around it,” said the house’s design director, Anne-Eva Geffroy.

  And at Baselworld this week, Chopard will be unveiling a playful transformation of the house’s heart emblem with moving diamond, to land in shops in June: three angled hearts create a butterfly shape, with the dancing diamond appearing in one of them. “Rather than having the hearts lay flat, we inclined them to evoke the fluttering wings of a butterfly,” the jewelry house’s artistic director and co-president, Caroline Scheufele, wrote in an email. The new collection will include necklaces, bracelets and rings.

  Butterflies long have been symbols of hope and freedom, and some observers say that their recent appearances are not surprising, given the general political and economic unease. The uncertainty over Britain’s scheduled departure from the European Union later this month has been part of that concern.

  "With Brexit,” the British jewelry designer Sia Taylor said, “for small businesses there is anxiety for people who are exporting, as none of us know what’s happening.” Ms. Taylor, who is based in the English county of Somerset, has made multi-gold wing necklaces for an abstract take on the butterfly.

  Fashion also led the way, with butterflies flitting through the spring 2019 collections. There were the statement-making butterflies in all shapes, sizes and colors, resting in geometric grids at Mary Katrantzou and in silver detail on Gucci jeans (which sold out at Net-a-Porter).

  During the spring couture shows in Paris, the butterfly silhouette appeared as an oversize bow on backpacks at Givenchy. And they even swept across the recent fall shows, with sightings on ladylike Dior skirts, as a jacquard print suit at Haider Ackermann and landing on a Valentino shearling coat.

  “When I want to play with color,” the Hong Kong jeweler Wendy Yue said, “looking at butterflies I get lot of inspiration for color stones.”

  She experimented this season with turquoise, coral and black agate for her innovative butterfly jewels, like her ring with a simplified turquoise butterfly as the base of a more realistic-looking sapphire version. So, she said, “you can see the sapphire butterfly better” yet the ring “ doesn’t look too busy.”

  Ms. Yue also introduced new shapes: A two-sided ring that combined the rubellite, diamond and tsavorite wings of a butterfly and a dragonfly. “I shortened and widened the wings as I thought it looked better for the pinkie finger,” she said. “And I thought it looked cute.” And another two-sided multigem ring molded into the shape of an orchid from a wax prototype that, she said, she had sitting on her table.

  Rosanne Karmes, founder of the Los Angeles-based jewelry company Sydney Evan, is using enamel for the first time for her butterfly necklaces — so the wings on each side are different colors, from black and white to red Bordeaux with pink, or green and deep navy blue. “It gives a more modern look and allows us to do different colors in a different way and more of a clean-line look without stones,” she said.

  Working with new materials has led to new designs. Sylvie Corbelin, who is based in Paris, said she adapted the butterflies on her new bamboo hoop earrings (the first time she has worked with bamboo for her one-of-a-kind pieces, she said). “They are rounder with curves and more feminine,” she said, “because the bamboo is rough so I have to make something more refined.”

  Instead of simply focusing on the butterfly’s wings (because their shape and size offers space to fill), this season some designers are emphasizing other parts of the insect’s body. Consider the Hong Kong-based jeweler Wallace Chan, who has elongated the antennae of his latest pair of Nebula butterfly brooches so “the butterfly is visible from all angles — front, back and side,” he said. And, in Milan, Giampiero Bodino has prettified the butterfly’s body, using rose-cut diamonds for the first time to add softness and scaling the body down at the curled ends “for fantasy,” he said.

  Signs are that the pieces will fly: A client immediately grabbed Cindy Chao’s 10-carat red diamond butterfly, its undulating wings splattered with yellow diamonds, on its debut in January during the Spring couture collections in Paris. (Every year since 2008 Ms. Chao has made a one-of-a-kind butterfly; in 2013, she donated the 2009 brooch, with fancy colored sapphires and diamonds, rubies and tsavorite garnets, to the National Museum of Natural History’s gem and mineral collection at the Smithsonian).

  Butterflies are easier to experiment with than other animal motifs, according to Kimberly McDonald, the New York-based jewelry curator turned designer, who is using Yowah opals from Australia for her new butterfly pieces with a black rhodium finish. “You don’t have to be bogged down in details like other animals, like hedgehogs,” she said. “You can make it as complicated with movement or size or as simple as you want.”

  But avoiding a cliché design is a tough challenge. Mr. Bodino, for example, chose to create a brooch depicting a butterfly from the side, with its wings up and closed, as if resting on an imaginary flower. “It shows lightness, the moment of interaction between the animal and flower as she’s not flying; she’s staying and it is a moment of calm,” he said.

  And making butterflies can be more difficult than it looks. The tiny antennae can easily be broken so “I’m very careful,” Ms. Karmes said.

  Ms. Yue had to ensure that her bow-like butterfly earrings with hanging pearls were not too heavy on the earlobes, and that the hooks holding the central pearls beneath the butterfly shapes were placed precisely, so they would hang properly. “I can only find out the result after production because I cannot have 100 percent surety what the outcome will be,” she said.

  Experimentation continues. Ms. Chao is trying a different way of layering the gemstones on the wings of her next one-of-a-kind butterfly to create more volume. “Trying to push each technique further than what we’ve achieved so far,” she said. (The new butterfly is to be unveiled at the Masterpiece London art fair from June 27 to July 3.)

  Ms. Taylor, the Somerset jeweler, is exploring the idea of overlapping wings and “playing with the forms that are made when they move,” she said.

  Technology also may lead the way. According to Mr. Chan, who recently developed a durable porcelain and continually creates new tools for his work, one day butterfly jewels might be able transmit information using the wavelengths of colors. And perhaps produce more than just a pretty bauble.



  凤凰论坛高手资料“【走】【啦】。”【霜】【儿】【很】【是】【豪】【爽】【的】【轻】【拍】【白】【旭】【的】【肩】【头】,【于】【她】【而】【言】,【白】【旭】【早】【就】【是】【她】【的】【好】【友】【了】,【所】【以】【别】【人】【不】【敢】【对】【白】【旭】【做】【的】【事】,【她】【敢】【做】。 “【我】【总】【觉】【得】,【自】【从】【认】【识】【琴】【儿】【以】【后】,【我】【这】【女】【生】【勿】【进】【的】【谣】【言】【就】【破】【了】。”【他】【想】【了】【想】,【慕】【容】【烟】【琴】【可】【以】【靠】【近】【他】,【霜】【儿】【可】【以】,【独】【孤】【清】【漪】【也】【能】,【还】【有】【沐】【夫】【人】,【灵】【儿】,【这】【些】【都】【是】【女】【人】。 “【你】【也】【说】,【那】【是】【谣】

【就】【在】【所】【有】【人】【都】【震】【惊】【于】【郑】【君】【怡】【的】【说】【法】【时】,【郑】【君】【怡】【已】【将】【神】【色】【柔】【和】【的】【看】【向】【了】【自】【己】【的】【丈】【夫】【和】【儿】【子】。 “【这】【些】【年】【来】,【除】【了】【战】【斗】【和】【想】【你】【们】【之】【外】,【我】【就】【在】【思】【考】,【也】【许】【我】【为】【什】【么】【会】【阴】【差】【阳】【错】【的】【来】【到】【这】【个】【世】【界】,【也】【许】【就】【是】【因】【为】【这】【场】【关】【于】【永】【生】【的】【闹】【剧】。” “【也】【正】【因】【如】【此】,【我】【才】【会】【拥】【有】【神】【奇】【的】【时】【空】【系】【灵】【宠】。” “【那】【现】【在】【红】【粉】【球】【成】【长】【的】【怎】

【老】【大】【贾】【莉】【雯】。 【身】【材】【高】【挑】,【烈】【焰】【红】【唇】,【挺】【翘】【的】【鼻】【子】,【大】【大】【的】【眼】【睛】【妩】【媚】【有】【加】,【眉】【毛】【细】【细】【长】【长】【翘】【翘】。 【一】【头】【酒】【红】【色】【长】【发】,【全】【挽】【在】【头】【顶】,【又】【高】【高】【垂】【下】,【直】【至】【腰】【间】 【李】【安】【鸿】【吞】【了】【吞】【口】【水】【又】【看】【向】【正】【在】【和】【自】【己】【说】【话】【的】【老】【二】,【入】【眼】【即】【是】 【非】【礼】【勿】【视】,【非】【礼】【勿】【听】,【连】【移】【开】【眼】。 【老】【二】【万】【芳】【芳】。 【依】【然】【是】****

  【今】【年】S9【世】【界】【赛】LPL【有】【三】【支】【队】【伍】【参】【加】S9,【而】RNG【止】【步】【十】【六】【强】【后】Karsa【就】【传】【出】【了】【自】【己】【不】【会】【续】【约】RNG【的】【消】【息】,【搞】【不】【好】【还】【会】【离】【开】LPL,【其】【次】【就】【是】【还】【有】【消】【息】【称】RNG【股】【东】【这】【次】【真】【的】【忍】【不】【了】【小】【虎】【了】,【逼】【着】RNG【俱】【乐】【部】【去】【寻】【找】【强】【力】【中】【单】,【而】IG【直】【到】【现】【在】【除】Duke【宣】【布】【离】【队】【外】,【没】【有】【一】【位】【选】【手】【公】【开】【承】【认】【自】【己】【要】【转】【会】,【但】【是】【近】【期】【关】【于】IG【的】【各】【种】【小】【道】【消】【息】【层】【出】【不】【穷】,【先】【是】【说】【宁】【要】【去】TES,【结】【果】TES【打】【野】【熊】【熊】【直】【接】【出】【来】【辟】【谣】,【但】【是】【这】【个】【节】【奏】【依】【旧】【有】【玩】【家】【在】【带】,【其】【次】【就】【是】JKL【和】【宝】【蓝】,【话】【说】【大】【家】【为】【何】【这】【么】【急】【着】【拆】【散】ig【完】【全】【体】【呢】?凤凰论坛高手资料“【咳】【嘿】【嘿】【嘿】……” “【湿】【发】”【卡】【里】【布】【听】【着】【属】【下】【的】【汇】【报】,【不】【禁】【笑】【出】【声】【来】:“【是】【吗】?【草】【帽】【小】【子】【接】【连】【两】【次】【被】【挑】【衅】、【出】【糗】,【现】【在】【正】【率】【领】【投】【靠】【到】【他】【麾】【下】【的】【船】【员】【追】【杀】【那】【群】【得】【罪】【他】【的】【人】【么】?” “【咳】【嘿】【嘿】【嘿】【嘿】……” “【看】【来】,【他】【是】【想】【要】【立】【威】【了】。” “【也】【好】,【正】【好】【去】【看】【看】【他】【有】【什】【么】【实】【力】,【然】【后】……” 【卡】【里】【布】【眼】【里】【冷】【光】【一】【闪】


  【晓】【得】【本】【人】【女】【儿】【和】【一】【个】【来】【路】【不】【明】【的】【穷】【小】【子】【住】【在】【一】【栋】【别】【墅】【里】【之】【后】,【他】【人】【不】【晓】【得】,【反】【正】【他】【的】【第】【一】【反】【响】【就】【是】【先】【把】【这】【个】【小】【子】【宰】【了】【再】【说】。 【砰】! 【宋】【晨】【來】【到】【拉】【卡】【尼】【丘】【的】【身】【邊】,【隻】【見】【空】【中】【上】【兩】【個】【绿】【色】【的】【配】【備】【散】【着】【幽】【绿】【的】【光】【辉】,【直】【接】【把】【其】【他】【幾】【件】【亮】【金】【配】【備】【给】【完】【整】【争】【艷】【瞭】【過】【去】。 【满】【腹】【疑】【惑】【的】【宋】【晨】,【踌】【躇】【的】【低】【喃】。 【看】【看】【天】【色】【也】【不】【早】

  【比】【赛】【开】【局】【三】【分】【四】【十】【八】【秒】,【黑】【豆】【奶】【就】【已】【经】【推】【上】【了】F10【的】【高】【地】。 【后】【羿】【的】【经】【济】【遥】【遥】【领】【先】【于】F10【战】【队】【最】【高】【经】【济】【的】**。 【面】【对】【黑】【豆】【奶】【的】【咄】【咄】【逼】【人】。F10【决】【定】【背】【水】【一】【战】,【切】【掉】【后】【羿】。【只】【要】【切】【掉】【后】【羿】。【黑】【豆】【奶】【必】【将】【群】【龙】【无】【首】。 【周】【梦】【龙】【的】**【不】【愧】【是】【玩】【的】【出】【神】【入】【化】。【在】【后】【羿】【推】【高】【地】【的】【时】【候】,【他】【直】【接】【冲】【入】【黑】【豆】【奶】【人】【群】【锁】【定】




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